![]() I would hazard that a cold/cold setup with a cold/bake final coat after 24 hours would probably be closer to ideal so that the initial coat(s) have tinme to fully cure, then the bake coat makes a shell over that. ![]() ![]() Painting cold then baking to cure is fine as long as you let the paint dry to the touch first (about 10~15 minutes at 80 degrees ambient) then go with alow temp so as not to cure too fast.Įvileyeswatching suggested 175 for about 15 minutes, and I agree that that would be about right.Ĭold paint, cold cure is what I'm doing because its warm out and I have a place to let the stuff hang for 24 hours (container suggests 6~8 hours) Of the 3 I would hazard that the warming of the part pre~painting would be the least desirable as due to the chemical makup of the paint, the stuff would 'flash dry' pretty much on contact giving little to no penetration The experiment phase involved warming the part and painting, painting the part cold and baking, painting and curing cold. Pretty much if it says 'not for sale in NJ or Cali' its likely got what you need in itĪll parts were cleaned with the carb cleaner for the batch painting. (Next Dimension brand at Advance Auto if it matters) Some parts were cleaned successfully using a industrial strength degreaser (had MEK in it I believe) and other done just as successfully with a good carburettor cleaning spray found at the local auto parts store. Got the stuff and went after it today after some experimenting last night. It will scratch off if you try, but it won't sheet, flake, peel or otherwise fall off.Ĭlosest I could describe beyond that is when done it looks just like a GI 20 round magazine, and after a period of time, looks just like a GI 20 round magazine after the same amount of handling and use.Įventually it'll wear down to the raw aluminum, just like a GI 20 round magazine will. It does penetrate the metal proper which is where it can do themost good for the longest time. Its seeming ability to 'rub off' isn't a downside as, again, that's excess. Then, the first several times you fondle it it'll have some rub off on your hands just like a NIB mag will do, then eventually take a dull non-reflective smooth finish after all the 'dust' comes off (excess moly basically) I'll make words once I do a few here (camera is down due to a PC crash) but the basic is, clean, warm the parts if desired, put it on, bake to cure if desired. I did recently get a few mags from evileyeswatchin that he had applied it to at some point and it was as I recall it being/working/feeling. Last I touched the stuff myself was during pre-deployment for Desert Storm when we were putting it on about every damn thing in the hopes it would allow for a little less oil gravitating the sand.
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